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Car problem, 2007 Honda accord.

Cigarlover

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#1
engine 2.4
Figured we have some good mechanics here so would throw this out for opinions.

Drove the car home the other day, no issues. Went to start it the next day and won't start. It turns over fine and almost starts but then nothing. Like it wasn't getting fuel. Replaced the fuel pump. Not the problem. We kept trying to turn it over last week when my friend was here. Popped and backfired real quick then nothing. So now I'm thinking fuel pump relay or timing belt..

What say the experts. :)
 

DodgebyDave

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#2
I'm betting on the timing belt, however, you still can't rule out the pump, or, outlet pressure

Step !) verify that the pump is coming on. when you move the key from off to run (NOT START) You should be able to hear the Pump cycle to pressurize the system.

If Yes go to step 2, If no you still have a fuel problem.

Step 2) Pop off the distributor cap and crank the engine. If the rotor turns the belt isn't broken but may still be worn/tensioner failure leading to jumping time
 

Cigarlover

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#3
Yes we have pressure from the fuel pump.. Its looking more and more like Timing belt, guides, tensioners. :(.. Common issues with these engines due to the oil issues.. Apparently they have an issue in these where they burn about a quart every 1000 miles.. Of course I just got this 10000 miles ago and had no idea it was an issue until recently when I heard some knocking. Oil almost dry (Took 3 1/2 quarts) And no the low oil light doesn't come on either. Another issue with these.

Looks like about a 5 hr job. Probably do the water pump while we in there as well. :(

Thank you Dave.
 

TAEZZAR

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#4
Damn, I thought Honda's were indestructible ! Past owner must have been hard on it.
I think you are on the right track.
Hope you get it solved & fixed right.
 

Cigarlover

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#5
Thats what I thought too.. Then she ran almost out of oil about 2 weeks ago with only 2 k on the last oil change. No low oil light came on, nothing.. Did a search and Honda actually had a class action because of it..
My best friend is a very good mechanic so I'm sure we will get it fixed. Be a lot easier to do at his shop though. :).
He's coming down tomorrow to do the brake line on my truck so at least I'll have 1 vehicle back on the road. :)
 

Uglytruth

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#6
"IF" it's be belt make sure the valves did not tag the pistons & get bent.
At first it sounded like an ECM then it backfired so probably not
 

Krag

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#8
Good luck; I had a similar job done for around $300 and parts on a Subaru. You should join an online Honda site, lots of helpful people on dedicated car sites.
 

hoarder

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#9
If the oil pressure light never ever came on since you bought it, the previous owner probably disabled it.....for a reason.
 

newmisty

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#10
Yes we have pressure from the fuel pump.. Its looking more and more like Timing belt, guides, tensioners. :(.. Common issues with these engines due to the oil issues.. Apparently they have an issue in these where they burn about a quart every 1000 miles.. Of course I just got this 10000 miles ago and had no idea it was an issue until recently when I heard some knocking. Oil almost dry (Took 3 1/2 quarts) And no the low oil light doesn't come on either. Another issue with these.

Looks like about a 5 hr job. Probably do the water pump while we in there as well. :(

Thank you Dave.
Can you increase the oil viscosity without damaging things in that motor?

My truck is having similar trouble and is likely the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.
 

Uglytruth

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#11
You guys even heard of an analog gage? Hook one up the old fashion way to monitor oil, fuel temp whatever.....
 

itsamess

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#12

DodgebyDave

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#13
Can you increase the oil viscosity without damaging things in that motor?

My truck is having similar trouble and is likely the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.
Increasing engine oil viscosity isn't going to help you with a fuel pressure regulator. Just replace it.
 

southfork

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#14
Check the pressure on the fuel rail, most auto stores will loan you the gauge, also check the accident switch that shuts gas off if your in an accident. Also try spraying starting fluid in the intake, that will tell you if gas or ignition issue
 

newmisty

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#15
Increasing engine oil viscosity isn't going to help you with a fuel pressure regulator. Just replace it.
lol, yes I was thinking in regard to the loss of oil, but re-reading his issue I don't think that would help the burning either.
 

Goldhedge

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#17
Wife has a VW bug... not the same, but they put some kind of high speed fan (expensive!) on the intake to keep the pollution down on startup (too rich fuel mix and extra input air alleviated that). It went out and wouldn't start.

Might be something like that?? Oh, and I hate VW's but wife thinks they're cute...


Also, is there a fuel filter that could be clogged - replacing the pump might not be the problem?? Check the manual for one up front under the shotgun seat. Had a Honda Odyssey with one 'hidden' there.

FWIW
 

Cigarlover

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#18
I think the backfire in the intake manifold is what keyed us to a timing issue.
For whatever reason These honda engines just go through oil. was a class action suit on it. Of course I didn't know that til it started knocking and turned out to be low on oil.
 

itsamess

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#19
I think the backfire in the intake manifold is what keyed us to a timing issue.
For whatever reason These honda engines just go through oil. was a class action suit on it. Of course I didn't know that til it started knocking and turned out to be low on oil.
How any miles are on the Honda that it would go through that much oil. What is the issue, rings, seals?
 

itsamess

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#20
According to the suit, 2008s were the start of the problem of normal 1 qt per 1000 miles. ~1.6 million vehicles. Also it looks like this was only for 6 cylinders not the four banger 2.4L

Class action notice
 

Cigarlover

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#21
I have a 2007 but says 2008 on one of the door panels or some shit. Probably a 2007 1/2.. ... Clearly this is an issue on the 07 and on the 2.4. The car is not burning oil anywhere or leaking anywhere. We also did a compression test on it before I bought it. We should be pretty deep into it in the next couple weeks. Right now I just need something that runs other than my 1989 f150 wood truck. Cant seem to kill that thing but no title on it. :(. Those straight 6's go forever.
 

Krag

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#23
I recently had a major issue on my 1997 Subaru, bad bearing that went worse quickly; broke down, tow truck city; fortunately my insurance covered the tow; I got a replacement knuckle for the front at a junkyard, mechanic charged $200. I do what repairs I can like the rear brake rotors and pads, some things require power tools.
 
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