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DIY Low cost equipment building

ttazzman

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#1
Last summer i set out to build me a equipment storage building on the super cheap using as much re-purposed materials as possible. the goal was to build over 3000sq/ft for under 1500$

I did all the work myself alone with the exception of a occasional assist from my gal and she also took the pictures

I did have the advantage of having a lot of equipment i own to mitigate the lack of extra hands

I greatly enjoyed the challange of the project so i decided to show the pictures to the group hope you guys enjoy
 

ttazzman

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#2
Decided to add on to a existing 100yr old barn that had a couple of sheds attached....wanted to match shed roof lines on each side (of course they were not square with each other or the original barn)

brush hogged off the site and started cleaning up the site and working out drainage

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ttazzman

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#5
I couldnt come up with any thing i could prepurpose for the building columns so i searched around and able to buy 6 x 6 treated lumber poles enough to do the job for ~300.....negotiated for some that were twisted to keep the price down

Got preliminary layout and stakeing done and started drilling holes and setting poles (spent another ~$50 for pole setting mix) but used gravel from a creek onsite

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Joe King

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#6
Cool! Can't wait to see the finished work. Looks like a good bit of pole sticking up there. How much is below ground?
...and nice set of equipment you've got.
 

ttazzman

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#10
Cool! Can't wait to see the finished work. Looks like a good bit of pole sticking up there. How much is below ground?
...and nice set of equipment you've got.
the holes are approx 3' deep (down to hard pan) ...any excess height i trim off top later
 

ttazzman

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#12
had 4 old small building steel rafters leftover from a building demo years ago...had to straiten and trim off bottom flange so i could fit them in a slot in the top of the posts ...used one on each end ...and welded two together for the middle rafter......YEAH FREE STUFF!!!.....
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ttazzman

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#15
my basic grid of poles is 20' + ....i had a few left over 8" zee purlins ...but not near enough to do the job ...searched craigslist and found some i got for 150$ but still a few short.....found a boatdock construction company a 100miles away that had taken down a large boat dock damaged by a storm ...they had some 35' long 24ga "r" panels (with screw holes) and a few more Zee purlins...so i spent 1k for that material..and had a hell of a trip home with those panels on my 25' trailer.....but....i have all the material i need to finish the project ..total spent about $1600 ....i had screws ..bolts ..and trim metal from my leftovers...was able to get enough metal panels to cover the endwall....sooooooo ...i need some more poles to fill gaps in endwalls.....so setting 3 more poles
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ttazzman

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#20
welllll....35' x 3' 24ga panels are hard to handle.....to heavy for one guy....to flimsy for one pick point.....dont have a machine to lift some to the roof without bending....want to use full panels so i dont have laps....finally i built a teter toter board ...2 x 14 approx 20 ft long for the frount of my tractor...went and put one panel at a time on it ...pulled up to low side of existing barn lifted it up about 7' high ...got off tractor pulled one end down ...other end got high enough to push on to low barn roof....then go up on roof and pull panel up the board...then slide it all the way to where it was needed.....YIKES...talk about slow...about 2 a hr ...but it worked...my gal wasnt around to take pictures....of lift setup..got 2 on the first night ...took a lot of measuring to get the first panel right but it should end up square and a couple of inches short of the existing roof...and if it all works should make the other side 3-4 inches short of its roof ..making transition flashing easy ... :)
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ttazzman

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#22
hell of a lot of work wrestling these monsters around by myself....lotsa screws...and lots of existing screw holes to fill (my purlin spacing didnt match the existing holes anywhere) ...good thing is as you get closer to the existing roof the less distance to drag the panels...but other side is really gona suck ..lol
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stonedywankanobe

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#24
Impressive stuff MrT. Very nice work.

I can sorta relate. About 10 years back pops and I did a 60 by 100 using 8x8 12' feet tall. We used wood trusses 4' oc and lathed with 2x6.

Roof sheets were the thinner ga than you have there but were 35' long and a booger to handle.
We used ratchet straps to coil up the sides and give them some rigidity but the grade of the lot was quite ridiculous, made it a nightmare.

Thought we may never get that thing done.

Taz, what will you be using to seal the the old screw holes?
 

ttazzman

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#25
Impressive stuff MrT. Very nice work.

I can sorta relate. About 10 years back pops and I did a 60 by 100 using 8x8 12' feet tall. We used wood trusses 4' oc and lathed with 2x6.

Roof sheets were the thinner ga than you have there but were 35' long and a booger to handle.
We used ratchet straps to coil up the sides and give them some rigidity but the grade of the lot was quite ridiculous, made it a nightmare.

Thought we may never get that thing done.

Taz, what will you be using to seal the the old screw holes?
had a bunch of these in a #17 size we used to call them bumblebees because they looked like a bee's butt....when i ran out of those i finished with these which are a size bigger than a #14

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ttazzman

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#26
Stoney.....you mentioned 8 x 8 posts in your post ....my 6 x 6s in the middle are pretty much at their "unbraced limit" for height 16-17' on tallest posts ....the two endwalls have plenty of lateral bracing ......i was concerned about wind uplift on the posts so i drilled holes each direction in the below grade part and put in short pieces of rebar both ways to engage the post mix to provide additional uplift resistance..
 

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#27
Cool thread!

I like stuff like this!

I might have demoed the barn and used the weathered wood for paneling inside or something like that.

It looks pretty worn out!
 

stonedywankanobe

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#28
Stoney.....you mentioned 8 x 8 posts in your post ....my 6 x 6s in the middle are pretty much at their "unbraced limit" for height 16-17' on tallest posts ....the two endwalls have plenty of lateral bracing ......i was concerned about wind uplift on the posts so i drilled holes each direction in the below grade part and put in short pieces of rebar both ways to engage the post mix to provide additional uplift resistance..
Definitely a good idea. We've used that very technique before on things that didn't need it.
 

ttazzman

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#29
Cool thread!

I like stuff like this!

I might have demoed the barn and used the weathered wood for paneling inside or something like that.

It looks pretty worn out!
the old barn was barely standing and off its foundation when i bought the place....i went in and put in new support beams/columns and braced everything up while the exterior is pretty rough looking the loft will hold over a thousand bales of hay with no issues ...wont win any beauty contests but it will stand till the outside rots off

for the record i was going to bulldoze and burn the old barn but i had family members that found it to be "rustic" etc.....so it survived....will outlive me now being protected on 3 sides
 
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ttazzman

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#30
was dreading the other side of the roof ...because i would need to trim off the excess sheet length of the sheets i had just laid...and the process of getting the sheets in place...both jobs turned out to be easier than i thought...putting sheets on the roof was easier because i could put up several at a time and stockpile them ...and triming the sheets off as i went wasnt as difficult as i imagined...but setting that first sheet is a pain for sure alone..thank goodness for clamps and a boom lift
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ttazzman

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#32
In keeping with the build cheap theme on the ridge i decided to saw each high rib on the panels and bend them over to make peak....then i put a piece of "eternabond tape" on each cut to seal it...then i cut some ribs off of excess panels to make "caps" over the eternabond...(worked like a dream zero leaks)
edit to add: for this technique to work both sides of the roof panels had to line up perfectly ...and the lap is away from the prevailing wind to save possible leak issues
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Professur

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#35
*gasp* You screwed into both the flat and the crown of the roof metal. I'll stand back while the internet's collective heads explode.
 

Bottom Feeder

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#36
Damn, Tazz, you got too many toys - I'm jealous.
Nice presentation, and good work on the pole shed.

BF
 

ttazzman

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#37
*gasp* You screwed into both the flat and the crown of the roof metal. I'll stand back while the internet's collective heads explode.
...let em explode...but this is a pre-emptive post LOL.... the metal i used is commercial 24ga x 1.5" "r" panel it is made to be screwed in the flats ...and then you also screw the high parts only where the panels lap...FWIW most of your large commercial warehouses that have a screw-down roof use this type of panel only it is normally 26ga which is lighter weight

i had the added advantage (ha ha) of not only screwing it where i needed to ....but also filling existing screw holes since it was a used panel...
 

ttazzman

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#38
well...roof is on..time for a endwall....put on a base board to hold the base trim for the wall sheets...also it provides a level i can grade gravel to in the future when i gravel the floor ...in all my negotiating i came up with some heavy hat channels and some odd length wall girts ...

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Bushpilot

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#40
Nice pics and build. Watch out for the three black choppers in the far sky of the one pic. I have seen steel buildings nailed in flats, ridges... and screwed both ways, doesn't matter as long as it doesn't leak. Nice job... thx for sharing.

Bp
 
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