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Farm Tractor thread
- Thread starter Argent Dragon
- Start date
... :) i remember you asking questions on old tractors and loaders a few years back ..... living the dream now in comparison ....... i was wondering how you were getting along with the rocker heel/toe HST setup .......thx for the followup...
do you ever take the loader off? ....i see this year Kubbie has a loader removeal setup that is supposed to be where you never have to leave your seat to remove and reattach...i take mine off the bigger tractor often ..but have never had mine off the smaller rig ...
do you ever take the loader off? ....i see this year Kubbie has a loader removeal setup that is supposed to be where you never have to leave your seat to remove and reattach...i take mine off the bigger tractor often ..but have never had mine off the smaller rig ...
So, I have been working on a 607 or is it a 706? anywhoo,s it is a cornbinder and the injection pump was sent in. So, so the thing will start and go poop, start and go poop.....so through the filters I do go and the hard lines and then I drain the tank. I clean out the fuel delivery and then delve into the return line; oh no the dreaded return line
plugged it was and the darn thing went into the bottom of the tank which is why I drained the fuel.
So drilled that restrictor out and the thing ran for an hour.....K, this thing has a accumulator hookup thingy and as the messicans just totally f'ed up two trailers of two strings that I had to stack up; you know like they should have done it right the first time but they no buwheay-no!
So there I was styling on the antique and looking good I might add and then the f'n thermostat started showing who was boss of this mofo circus.
So, while you guys are smoking ur smokes and crushing those cans eye, yes I, will be out getting the hay in AND if that tractor does not track then I will be doing it the old fashion way; by hand. And, you thought I could not drag things down any more than anybody; din't U?
plugged it was and the darn thing went into the bottom of the tank which is why I drained the fuel.
So drilled that restrictor out and the thing ran for an hour.....K, this thing has a accumulator hookup thingy and as the messicans just totally f'ed up two trailers of two strings that I had to stack up; you know like they should have done it right the first time but they no buwheay-no!
So there I was styling on the antique and looking good I might add and then the f'n thermostat started showing who was boss of this mofo circus.
So, while you guys are smoking ur smokes and crushing those cans eye, yes I, will be out getting the hay in AND if that tractor does not track then I will be doing it the old fashion way; by hand. And, you thought I could not drag things down any more than anybody; din't U?
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2011
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I have a 4WD Deere 955 with a hydro and I love it. Seems bullet proof- the whole thing seems bullet proof. Quick tach bucket, tiller, snow blower, bush hog and blade so I use it year round on the acreage. I do try to be careful with it by using the low range when working it hard though. Did have a 755, the smaller one of the 55 series but swapped it for the 955 for more oomph. Never had any trouble with the hydros in either one of them. But- these are 80's tractors so they're a lot tougher than the newer lightweight utilities Deere puts out now.
For a utility tractor I would insist on a hydro for convenience. Never have to use brakes except occasionally for steering while power scraping or grading with the front loader.
For a utility tractor I would insist on a hydro for convenience. Never have to use brakes except occasionally for steering while power scraping or grading with the front loader.
Adventures in farming:
So I got several old tractors running and I jumped on the 4020 and nada.....I hate the tater juice they put in the fuel. Seriously I am thinking of building a still and a external fuel heater this winter. The still will run under a vacuum so I can pull out the dinosaur blood and separate it from the tater juice. The external heater is so I can run hot fuel through the whole system and liquify the black crud and remove it because nothing I know other than lye works on it and there are two many brass and aluminum parts to remove to boil the crud out.
Definition of tater juice: Fry oil/vegetable oil/ O'Bummer fuel.
So I got several old tractors running and I jumped on the 4020 and nada.....I hate the tater juice they put in the fuel. Seriously I am thinking of building a still and a external fuel heater this winter. The still will run under a vacuum so I can pull out the dinosaur blood and separate it from the tater juice. The external heater is so I can run hot fuel through the whole system and liquify the black crud and remove it because nothing I know other than lye works on it and there are two many brass and aluminum parts to remove to boil the crud out.
Definition of tater juice: Fry oil/vegetable oil/ O'Bummer fuel.
Well, this is going to be should've listed to Ttazzman reply..........
The stump bucket works great BUT, my tractor is too light for heavy roots and/or stumps !
The hydraulics are strong enough to tilt one of my rear wheels off the ground !!! Now that IS scary !
Probably not intended for this use, but I used it in trench digging.
The stump bucket works great BUT, my tractor is too light for heavy roots and/or stumps !
The hydraulics are strong enough to tilt one of my rear wheels off the ground !!! Now that IS scary !
Probably not intended for this use, but I used it in trench digging.
only thing i own thats Hystat is my hand control skid loader........i have used them extensively in the past and they are great for smaller tractors (40hp>) and working a lot around obstacles and are great for diverse operators ...IE the female unit can use it ........but i personally feel its easy usability goes away in a hurry when you field a hystat unit...IE not what you want to pull a plow/disk/big mowers basicly anything that takes some real HP applied continuously.......my most used tractors are shifter power reverser tractors as they fit the mid HP range usability 40-125hp....im not up on the larger tractor transmission trends but i know JD is going to "dial-a-speed" and the transmission picks the gear etc that fits
just my personal bias and opinion
just my personal bias and opinion
Not exactly a tractor but very much farm related. Guys started silaging on my home 1/4 today.
They cut with these
5 trucks hauling and this is the coolest looking
I was over and ran a packer tractor at the feedlot for two days and with 14 trucks hauling myself and a good looking young lady were busier than beavers keeping up. Day after the other girl came back to run her tractor I stopped by and they had three tractors pushing silage.
They cut with these
5 trucks hauling and this is the coolest looking
I was over and ran a packer tractor at the feedlot for two days and with 14 trucks hauling myself and a good looking young lady were busier than beavers keeping up. Day after the other girl came back to run her tractor I stopped by and they had three tractors pushing silage.
Mike, that field was Bonanza barley which is a silage barley. It's running just over 8 ton an acre and was sold for $70/ton delivered. Cutting and delivery will run close to $20/ton+/-[butprobably+]. I don't know how the custom silagers run as they are charging $560/hr for the cutter that costs $600,000+ and I can get that nearly with a $20,000 sprayer.
After losing my 1025r in the flood this past spring, and now that we have a new place, I needed a new tractor. Figured I'd upgrade while I was at it. Went to the 2038r.
We have a lot of driveway/gravel area, and I have to say that the driveway grader is the cat's ass. I was hesitant to spend the money on it, but it is well worth it - at least in our case.
Now the problem is that all my other attachments are undersized, as they were sized to the 1025r. The rotary cutter and tiller won't cover the wheeltracks. But, I seem to have them working so we'll go with them until I get a chance to upgrade.
The place we bought is five acres...lots of gravel/driveway, and half of it (2.5 acres) is in what has been farmland. Ready to get it ready for gardening...
We have a lot of driveway/gravel area, and I have to say that the driveway grader is the cat's ass. I was hesitant to spend the money on it, but it is well worth it - at least in our case.
Now the problem is that all my other attachments are undersized, as they were sized to the 1025r. The rotary cutter and tiller won't cover the wheeltracks. But, I seem to have them working so we'll go with them until I get a chance to upgrade.
The place we bought is five acres...lots of gravel/driveway, and half of it (2.5 acres) is in what has been farmland. Ready to get it ready for gardening...
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[QUOTE="Jarrod32,[/QUOTE]
Just sayin'... I cover my new garden ground with 5-7mil black plastic.
This kills all surface growth which becomes compost.
If there is seed( there is)pull plastic off right before big rain, plus sun for couple days and place it back on same spot.
Seedlings start and croak.
In my state everything needs lime, so I lime it before plastic and Organic Espoma Garden Tone fertilizer.
For about $80 a roll of 20' x 100' costs and will last 4-7 years if not abused.
Me just sayin' if your going for acres... although CA seems to plastic it by hectare.
My roughest battle was wild blueberry field on rocky acidic clay base.
Left the plastic down for 1/2 summer through to spring.
Everything under was stone cold dead.
Brought in top soil and organic compost tilled and grew and harvested it all.
Limed before plastic, after plastic, then after tilling with topsoil and compost.
Had to trench around it to divert acidic run off from field.
Let the blueberries grow right up to the edge of 18" path on the south side.
Every other year picking broccoli and stealing blueberries !
Miss those 4 acres of Organic berries, little gold mine at two acres a year.
People line up for hand raked OG 5 strains of blueberries... blue cash.
Have fun !
Here is a link to your received solar energy 2018 and 2019.
http://www.iceagefarmer.com/gdd/
Just sayin'... I cover my new garden ground with 5-7mil black plastic.
This kills all surface growth which becomes compost.
If there is seed( there is)pull plastic off right before big rain, plus sun for couple days and place it back on same spot.
Seedlings start and croak.
In my state everything needs lime, so I lime it before plastic and Organic Espoma Garden Tone fertilizer.
For about $80 a roll of 20' x 100' costs and will last 4-7 years if not abused.
Me just sayin' if your going for acres... although CA seems to plastic it by hectare.
My roughest battle was wild blueberry field on rocky acidic clay base.
Left the plastic down for 1/2 summer through to spring.
Everything under was stone cold dead.
Brought in top soil and organic compost tilled and grew and harvested it all.
Limed before plastic, after plastic, then after tilling with topsoil and compost.
Had to trench around it to divert acidic run off from field.
Let the blueberries grow right up to the edge of 18" path on the south side.
Every other year picking broccoli and stealing blueberries !
Miss those 4 acres of Organic berries, little gold mine at two acres a year.
People line up for hand raked OG 5 strains of blueberries... blue cash.
Have fun !
Here is a link to your received solar energy 2018 and 2019.
http://www.iceagefarmer.com/gdd/
2038r ...is certainly a step up lot more hp and general clearance, loader specs, etc to work with ......those smaller subcompact tractors really need a lot of ballast especially for loader work........ "greentractortalk .com" is a great source for information and a very active site on the smaller JD tractors ....
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