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Front end vibration over 50 mph

southfork

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#1
1999 Grand Marquis over 50 mph periodic vibration passengers front wheel, comes and goes .. Only thing I find is the idler arm bushing is worn out, any thoughts on this causing the problem? Where the arm connects to the steering center link.
 

Professur

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#2
Warped brake rotor.
 

andial

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#3
Tire needs balancing bad shock or rotor, idler arm with a lot of play would cause loose steering action road grooves directing your car not up and down vibrations.
 

southfork

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#5
Tire needs balancing bad shock or rotor, idler arm with a lot of play would cause loose steering action road grooves directing your car not up and down vibrations.
Yah tires in need of a balance job, and the idler arm bushing is worn. Not a constant vibration though, seems to happen more the faster I go though. Perhaps a tire idler arm combo.
 

andial

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#6
Might as well do both plus check the shock absorber, pushing in should be pretty easy pulling out should be hard.
 

searcher

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#7
If it were me checking it out I'd look for:

- tires to make sure they are not out of round and make sure they are balanced right (also be sure there isn't any slop in the front wheel bearings)
- all steering linkages, suspension components, stabilizers, ball joints to be sure they were ok and didn't have too much play
- front brakes (original rotors on GM's have been known to warp) but that would generally cause a problem during braking not regular driving
 

oldgaranddad

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#8
I had this problem and it was a chunk out of one of the tires. Go figure! Check the tires before you go for the expensive stuff.
 

southfork

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#11
no dirt, no sno in fl, will check for weights and chunk missing, the way its actin seems reminiscent of a worn joint many years back in the 70,s
 

Irons

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#12
My beater truck is doing the same wobble type thing between 55 and 65. Smooth at 70+ though.
I need to get off my ass and get the tires checked I think the kid put them on with a butter knife and balanced them on a traffic cone.
 

edsl48

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#14
Years ago when only bias ply tires were used if any can remember those days it seemed like out of balance tires would cause what we called "shimmying" amounting to the steering wheel wobbling and be most prevalent somewhere around 45 mph. For a bare bones
do the cheapest thing first we would rotate the tires and then see what happened.
However as pointed out if you can see where there is a chunk taken out or a weight thrown so much the better as it is immediately identified. Balancing on a cone as you put it was in fact similar to many old time balancers that looked like a cone and had a 360 degree type of level at the top of the cone. Naturally the heavier part of the wheel would cause the wheel to tilt the cone and weights were added till the cone was, as indicated by the level, straight up and down. Today they use dynamic balancing which is far superior to the old level types but thats mainly what many outlets had except for some specialty shops that had Hunter dynamic systems that would spin the tire while on the car. None the less though when there was a shimmy rotating the tires is a cheap no cost try for a diyer

Check this out http://www.aa1car.com/library/vibrations.htm

Most tire/wheel imbalance problems will make themselves evident at speeds above 45 to 50 mph. A back-and-forth shimmy in the steering wheel means one or both front wheels are dynamically imbalanced, or a rim is bent. A simple bubble balancer can't address either of these.
 
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mayhem

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#15
Just about every cause has been already stated. So out of the box here. Front wheel drive? Check CVC joints, and bearings. Not FWD, could be a out of round tire. ( I've had that happen.) Check the tire for a bubble, ply separation. Other than that I'm out of ideas.
 

Zed

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#16
Wouldn't that result in a constant vibration, this comes and goes. Maybe 2 seconds or 3 at a time . No vibration when hitting brakes
Maybe the callipers aren't floating properly, binding on their pins. Should be simple to check and free them up... just a thought, never actually had them bind personally but I guess it happens.
 

ErrosionOfAccord

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#17
Out of round strikes a bell. I locked up the brakes once back when you still could and flat spotted some tires. It made that car miserable to drive.
 

dacrunch

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#18
1st thing I'd do is rotate wheels front to back - and see if the problem comes from the wheels/tires. Takes an hour and costs nothing....

btw - very fond of that platform... had a few Crown Vics & Grand Marquis - and my favorite, 1997 Town Car Signature... Hit speed bumps at 60mph and don't feel a thing... Miami-Vt in less than 24hrs... Hardest thing is respecting the speed limit... and not falling asleep, it's so comfy...

So in my old age, I'm falling back to Chrysler mini-van... don't get "bored to death" at 30mph.... and a mattress in the rear with all seats folded INTO the floor allow "sleep breaks" whenever needed.
 
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Ensoniq

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#19
You need a new car payment ;)
 

southfork

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#20
You need a new car payment ;)

NEVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Neither a borrower nor a lender be. At the young age of 66+ I plan on making this my last car, only has 135k on it runs well, body and interior in good shape , unless I happen to hit a good stock or something else, like silver going to 100 bucks then I would consider and only consider another one.
 
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searcher

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#21
NEVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Neither a borrower nor a lender be. At the young age of 66+ I plan on making this my last car, only has 135k on it runs well, body and interior in good shape , unless I happen to hit a good stock or something else, like silver going to 100 bucks then I would consider and only consider another one.
:beer:

Don't blame ya one bit.

I'm curious as to what the vibration is. Once you find out let us know.
 

Goldhedge

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#22
Police Auto Auction
 

mayhem

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#24
I'm curious as to what the vibration is
Ahhhhh man it is kind'a like a periodic vibration in the passengers front wheel, comes and goes .
:funky:

Just funnin ya search....
 

mayhem

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#25
Put on your Rick Perry glasses and get a close up look.
I'm sure if ya asked Rick he'd know..

If he says no, then have someone tie ya, (or find a volunteer) and then take the sled up to speed and with your Rick Perry classes on yoy should be able to see what the problem is.

Have the ball joints checked too.
 

southfork

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#26
Will do, as I said I found a worn idler arm bushing on that side so going to swap that out first, looks like I have to drop two tie rod ends and the center link to change it so im spraying the bolts with wd 40 for a week or two first, 99 has a tad bit of rust on the bolts..

:beer:

Don't blame ya one bit.

I'm curious as to what the vibration is. Once you find out let us know.
 

Bushpilot

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#27
Deep Creep works way better for me over wd40 to loosen rusted and corroded bolts. Its made by the same company as sea foam. Good luck, rusted parts can make that a bear.

BP
 

Professur

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#28
Chuck the Water Displacement 40 in the trash. A 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF(automatic transmission fluid) is the best penetrating lube, bar none.
 

mayhem

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#29
Yeah rusty nut's are a beach... I always used a good socket with a breaker bar and a pipe on the bar so' I could apply a smooth even pressure on the nuts. The bar does give you a lot of leverage, so don't apply a lot of force, just a even amount of pressure and after a few seconds the nut will start to turn.(hopefully)
 

mayhem

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#30
Chuck the Water Displacement 40 in the trash. A 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF(automatic transmission fluid) is the best penetrating lube, bar none.
I like that idea a lot, thanks.
 

ttazzman

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#31
Idler arm bushings will cause that problem........as will everything else mentioned above......a issue that comes at a certain speed each time is usually from a rotational balence problem IE tires..rotars..etc...like someone said rotate the tires to take them out of the equation
 

solarion

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#34
Chuck the Water Displacement 40 in the trash. A 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF(automatic transmission fluid) is the best penetrating lube, bar none.
Old skool gearhead trick. Nice.
 

southfork

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#35
Yah tires in need of a balance job, and the idler arm bushing is worn. Not a constant vibration though, seems to happen more the faster I go though. Perhaps a tire idler arm combo.
Replaced the idler arm assembly on the passengers side, took a ride on the interstate for 30 min at 75 mph, no more vibrations. Cost 36 bucks to repair and some sweat equity.
 

Howdy

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#36
Replaced the idler arm assembly on the passengers side, took a ride on the interstate for 30 min at 75 mph, no more vibrations. Cost 36 bucks to repair and some sweat equity.
Yup, worn idler arm bushings will cause severe toe in fluctuation, the faster you go the worse it gets.