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Need help sizing generator to run central air

southfork

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#1
I have a 4 ton 16 seer unit, although the lra is listed as 109 the actual draw on each leg to compressor was 29/30 , after installing a -5/2/1 hard start kit the start amps are 19/20 on each leg so around 40 amps, blower is on time delay so does not enter equation, Im thinking a 12k generator should handle this, obviously no stove or hot water heater running, has anyone sized their ac for a generator and run it sucessfully.
 

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#2
Get the biggest and best one you can afford.
 

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South,
Is this for occasional usage? Reason I ask is that there is limited, if any, service factor any more. So you may purchase a unit and honestly stay below rated output and still have premature failure by operating close to unit max rating. I have started to oversize items like these by as much 1.5 to 2 times what is needed if it is a critical application. My best example is that back in the 70's I changed out a mess of 100 HP 480v 3 phase motors, those beasts created in the 40's weighed almost 600# the new ones 300#. Less steel, less copper, less bearing pretty much less everything. Now those 300#ers are being replaced with 215# units. Somehow same application has gone from a 600# to 215# answer. Pretty clear to see you better not overload that 215# for very long or bad things are going to happen.....
my2c....
 

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I used a $99 5000 BTU window unit to cool 1 bedroom and plug it into a 10,000 kw gasoline generator. When you try to do the whole house a' la carte you can run into plenty of hurdles. You will need to calculate the pull of everything that's running.

The absolute best method is to install a Generac whole house propane generator. Then you can party on much easier, but it will cost you.
 

southfork

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South,
Is this for occasional usage? Reason I ask is that there is limited, if any, service factor any more. So you may purchase a unit and honestly stay below rated output and still have premature failure by operating close to unit max rating. I have started to oversize items like these by as much 1.5 to 2 times what is needed if it is a critical application. My best example is that back in the 70's I changed out a mess of 100 HP 480v 3 phase motors, those beasts created in the 40's weighed almost 600# the new ones 300#. Less steel, less copper, less bearing pretty much less everything. Now those 300#ers are being replaced with 215# units. Somehow same application has gone from a 600# to 215# answer. Pretty clear to see you better not overload that 215# for very long or bad things are going to h
appen.....
my2c....
Just for hurricane protection, im thinking a 12k might do it but dont want to take a chance, biggest draw the central ac, running amp one leg is 9/10 amps, 20 total , ac heats the hot water tank so no power there, really just the fridge and a tv , light or two but all are led/,s
 

ttazzman

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I run whole house on a 17kw unit.......i have a 5 ton (2-stage)(starts on lower stage) geothermal unit (house) and 1.5ton geothermal unit (shop) ....everything else is also electric .....of course i wouldnt run items like washer dryer range etc in conjuction with hvac....i do turn off the shop hvac if power goes out.......but the 17kw unit has ZERO issues running it....fwiw breaker sizes are hvac compressor unit 40a 240......air handler 15a 240....also have 30amp 240 for well pump---our hot water is combo groundsoure/gas <<only thing gas in the house other than the generator .......we are on propane (higher rated than natgas)......you can usually look at your hvac unit specs and get the start up load and the running loads and make decisions based on that but obviously you cant start/run everything in the house at the same time. usually the highest single start load rules

so for me 17000watts / 240volts = 70amps of useable .......for you 12000watts /240volts = 50amps of useable........my loads are similar to yours and i allowed for 20% extra and i had a guy that owed me a genset and he had a new 17kw in stock

you should also consider the actual run time of each genset mine is about 3-5 days on a 500gal propane tank depending on load

fwiw being that geothermal is our only practical heat source that is the primary reason for the gen backup is more for cold weather than hot weather

useful article http://www.generators.smps.us/start.html
 
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GOLDBRIX

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#7
I used a $99 5000 BTU window unit to cool 1 bedroom and plug it into a 10,000 kw gasoline generator. When you try to do the whole house a' la carte you can run into plenty of hurdles. You will need to calculate the pull of everything that's running.

The absolute best method is to install a Generac whole house propane generator. Then you can party on much easier, but it will cost you.
I like the GENERAC idea my brother loves his. When his Fla. neighborhood went dark during a hurricane a few years ago his house was the only one with power. He had the neighbors come over to rest, sleep, and wash up . In the morning all the men started cutting up the trees that blocked the roadways out way before the power company could get there.

He said two more neighbors have bought themselves Generac systems.
 

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We lost power twice ( more than a day) over the past 20 years, Generac sounds nice.
 

Unca Walt

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I run whole house on a 17kw unit.......i have a 5 ton (2-stage)(starts on lower stage) geothermal unit (house) and 1.5ton geothermal unit (shop) ....everything else is also electric .....of course i wouldnt run items like washer dryer range etc in conjuction with hvac....i do turn off the shop hvac if power goes out.......but the 17kw unit has ZERO issues running it....fwiw breaker sizes are hvac compressor unit 40a 240......air handler 15a 240....also have 30amp 240 for well pump---our hot water is combo groundsoure/gas <<only thing gas in the house other than the generator .......we are on propane (higher rated than natgas)......you can usually look at your hvac unit specs and get the start up load and the running loads and make decisions based on that but obviously you cant start/run everything in the house at the same time. usually the highest single start load rules

so for me 17000watts / 240volts = 70amps of useable .......for you 12000watts /240volts = 50amps of useable........my loads are similar to yours and i allowed for 20% extra and i had a guy that owed me a genset and he had a new 17kw in stock

you should also consider the actual run time of each genset mine is about 3-5 days on a 500gal propane tank depending on load

fwiw being that geothermal is our only practical heat source that is the primary reason for the gen backup is more for cold weather than hot weather

useful article http://www.generators.smps.us/start.html

ttazz has it spot on. In my observation, folks do careful analysis of power needs for A/C... and TOTALLY MISS the critical part:

Where the fug is all that energy gonna come from?

Answer: Either propane or gasoline. That is really it. And as ttazz points out, you get a whopping 3-5 days out of a 500 fargin gallon propane tank. Gasoline is higher in energy per unit than propane, but the problems with gasoline are much greater.

As an old engineer, I put my slide rule (no shit, I still have one!!) to it and came to a conclusion, to wit:

DON'T try to air-condition your whole fargin house. You will have to have a gasoline tanker truck parked in your driveway, or a 10,000 gallon propane tank buried in your back yard.

The solution is embarrassingly easy. Go get two items:

1. From WalMart




Product TitleGE 5000 BTU Mechanical Air Conditioner, 115V, Gray, ...
Average rating:4.5598out of5stars, based on343reviews343ratings

Current Price
$116.00
List Price$129.00
Free shipping

2. Honda eu2000 generator from... OMG: WalMart again. $999. Sumbitch even puts out DC if you want to charge batteries. TINS



This sooper-quiet darling is so easy to start, my dainty wife can start it easily. It is so fargin quiet that you have to walk over to it to listen to see if it is running.

Oh... and remember that gasoline tanker truck? This beauty runs EIGHT (8) hours on a tad LESS than a gallon of gas.

That ain't a typo. All night on a gallon of gas. Running a window A/C.

I have two of them. And I have two window A/C's... one for the bedroom, one for the living room. So my entire house is cool (way the hell down here in West Palm Fargin Beach). For two gallons a day.

I have two other generators (one for backup, one for lights, fridge/freezer, TV.) During power outages (and they can last for more than a week!!!) I cook outdoors on my propane grill. <-- It has a little propane tank that generally lasts a few months.

So lookit your/my outlay for peace of mind: $2K for two top-of-the-line quality generators, $232 for two A/C's that easily cool your whole house.

SUMMARY:

If your power is out for 3 days... where, oh where are you gonna get 300 gallons of propane delivered from for another 3 days?

Why not install Unca's Sooper System, and get away with A/C and general power for $2300 and ten 5-gallon gas cans full of gas (fitty gallons @ $2.50/gallon = $125.

Total outlay: UNDER $2500, and no more fargin worries at all.


LATE FARGIN EDIT GEEZ!!! I fergot the fargin main selling point: Outlay in bucks for Unca's setup is very probably less than 1/5 the cost of the OP concept... and the FUEL lasts ten fargin times as long
 
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GOLDBRIX

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#10
Can't argue with a man that can use a slide rule.

I like the set-up you call for Unca.
 

Alton

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#11
Generac is the de facto standard gennie for outdoor shows. Always reliable and provides rated power without problem. Typical outdoor shows needed 200 - 400 amps. That quantity has been dropping due to the advent of high speed switching power supplies in class D amplifiers. The change over to digitally based lighting and LED products has not yet significantly reduced power demand for lighting due to the use of many motorized lighting fixtures and assorted theater lighting instruments.

That said, standard rule of thumb and NEC guideline for hardwire service panels is 80% of service panel rating. So if you're using a 200 amp service panel you only want to run 160 amps through it at any given time. I've found it's good to leave yourself this level of "headroom" in case an appliance wants to take a dump on you or other weirdness happens. This headroom in current draw is also a useful "standard" for generators. So if your AC wants to see 30A/leg to be happy and healthy you would be smart to let it see that from a gennie that's rated to at least 40A/leg. Bigger here, would be better to allow for future circuit additions. Now you just have to sort it all out with Mr. Wallet to see what's workable for you.
 

ttazzman

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Walt hit some important considerations as to fuel and ussage, in my situation the decision to put in a automatic unit was primarily for heating purposes especially in winter if we are traveling to protect the home from freezing.......i am in the somewhat unique position to have several generator options ....tractor pto powered and hundreds of gallons of diesel, meduim sized Gas powered gen/welder combos.....and small inverter units like Walt posted......I 100% agree with walts way of dealing with the issue from a cost, flexibility, resale etc options....as it was the option i used when i was as city dweller ....couple of pics of our primary unit setup in place now almost 10 years with no problems....
 

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hoarder

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Some words of caution. Honda generators use very little fuel, which is why they often won't start and sometimes won't run at all when it's less than 20 degrees outside....too damn lean. I tried drilling out the jet on one of mine and it wouldn't run hardly at all until I bought a new jet and put it back in. Usually they are OK if you can carry it inside to warm up before you start it. Strong back helps. Generac larger generators and their older generators are pretty good, but their smaller generators made in the last decade or so have been getting some mediocre reports. For those who are shopping for new generators under 10 KW, you aren't going to get much bang for your buck.
 

nickndfl

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I like the GENERAC idea my brother loves his. When his Fla. neighborhood went dark during a hurricane a few years ago his house was the only one with power. He had the neighbors come over to rest, sleep, and wash up . In the morning all the men started cutting up the trees that blocked the roadways out way before the power company could get there.

He said two more neighbors have bought themselves Generac systems.
I been in 5 hurricanes and say there is no substitute for a Generac. I would also get a window a/c unit just in case the central system breaks down without a power failure. You can also go with a smaller gas generator which uses less fuel to complement the Generac. If you plan on keeping the house there is no better way to go.
 

tigerwillow1

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Just as a data point, I have a 5 ton heat pump and a 10 kW PTO generator. The tractor engine is 23 HP, so that's the limiting factor. It's good for about 7 kW. The heat pump draws a bit under 5 kW running, but when I attempt to start it with the PTO generator, the tractor engine dies. I have propane available for backup heating so my main concern is running the well pump. It draws about 3.5 kW and the PTO generator handles it ok. For lighter loads I use an eu2000i drawing from a 500 gal propane tank.
 

Unca Walt

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Some words of caution. Honda generators use very little fuel, which is why they often won't start and sometimes won't run at all when it's less than 20 degrees outside....too damn lean. I tried drilling out the jet on one of mine and it wouldn't run hardly at all until I bought a new jet and put it back in. Usually they are OK if you can carry it inside to warm up before you start it. Strong back helps. Generac larger generators and their older generators are pretty good, but their smaller generators made in the last decade or so have been getting some mediocre reports. For those who are shopping for new generators under 10 KW, you aren't going to get much bang for your buck.

Your post is spot on. But if the temperature where I am sitting right now lookin' across at my bamboo, mango, cocoplum, and coconut trees gets to 20 degrees... We are in nuclear winter.

They ain't too heavy for the redhaired wanton I live with; they weigh 47 pounds.

So I just leaves it inna garage. Without fuel in it***

***There was a time I did not know this. No gas in the tank or line. You MUST drain your carbonator before storing.
 

southfork

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#18
I have a coleman ive used in last two storms,, but now at 67 i need to try to cool the whole house, im going to buy a 10/12 btu portable unit vent them thru plywood on windows for back up, but still want to use the central. The duromax might be an option at 1099, puts out around 39 plus amps, to get one that does 50 amps more than doubles the price not to mention the gas consumption
 

southfork

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So I had ordered a 12k watt generator from Lowes, 8 day delivery they said, the night before they called and said they didnt have any. So I decided to try this one a Champion
Gasoline Starting Watts 11500WGasoline Running Watts 9200WGasoline Starting Amps at 120V 95.8AGasoline Starting Amps at 240V 47.9AGasoline Running Amps at 120V 76.7AGasoline Running Amps at 240V 38.3AVolts 120/24

It has a 7 bar led to measure the wattage output of draw, on AC start up it never exceeded 3 bars on the watt meter, I ran the unit over 1.5 hours, beside the ac the fridge, tv, pool pump was running and only used 4 bars of power. The 5-2-1 hard start kit also acted as a soft start kit softening the surge on the unit. Ive also bought two portable ac units, a 8000 watt and a 12000 watt, going to use these for backup in the event the main ac or generator goes i will have back up as I have a smaller generator from years back. I was ecstatic when I saw the ease with the generator handled the surge of the central air unit, its a 4 ton 16 seer, plus I have the hot water recovery on it so the ac heats the hot water tank when running. Didnt run washer/dryer,range, but I could shut the ac off if i needed to for an hour to run one of those as I dont want to max out the generator.
 

Unca Walt

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Southfork: BE SURE to measure your fuel-per-hour numbers.

Write them down. And use that data to prepare wisely.

This is important. You do not get power from nuthin'. You get it from your really nice generators gobbling it out of the go-juice. Here's a quote about much smaller generators to think about:

"A standard 5,000 watt generator will consume around 18 gallons of gasoline during a 1 day/24 hour period. "

That is a 5,000 watt, bro. And if you load your big generator down, the number of gallons needed goes way the hell up. BTDT.

I have an outbuilding I use for storage of 5-gallon gas containers. I filled twenty of the fargin things with gas. 100 gallons. Since my generator was an 8,000 watt (not 4,000), it rounded up to about a gallon an hour under a load comprising a refrigerator, a freezer, TV, a few lights, and a window A/C.

It did not take long for me to think: "Oh, dear. That $300 worth of gas will last five fucking days!"

Yours will use more. They advertise these things quoting a run-time per tankful... but they calculate that time by saying "at 50% load" or even "at 1/4 load". Per the Champion folks, "Champion Power Equipment 46533 5,000w indicate that it can runs for 12 hours on full tank (4 gallons) of gas at 50% load." That's one gallon in three hours -- AT 1/2 LOAD. This drops to 1.5 hours per gallon at full use load.

"459cc Champion engine produces 10,000 starting watts and 8000 running watts, and will run for 8 hours at 50% load when the 6.0-gallon fuel tank is full." That's 4,000 watts for a 3/4 gallon-per hour fuel use. If you double the wattage draw, you halve the time before your tank is empty... https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product/100297-8000-watt-dual-fuel-generator/

You've acquired good equipment. But even the Champion people tell you that you cannot run the generator for long periods. It burns up the oil.

Just make damn' sure you have a way to RUN your equipment after three days...
 
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hoarder

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#21
"A standard 5,000 watt generator will consume around 18 gallons of gasoline during a 1 day/24 hour period. "
.
That makes diesel generators look good. A 7500 watt will use 4/10 of a gallon per hour at full load. That's 9.6 gallons of tax exempt red diesel.
 

mayhem

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That makes diesel generators look good. A 7500 watt will use 4/10 of a gallon per hour at full load. That's 9.6 gallons of tax exempt red diesel.
The other advantage is the diesel gen's run at 1,800rpm which is half the rpm of a gasser.
 

hoarder

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The other advantage is the diesel gen's run at 1,800rpm which is half the rpm of a gasser.
Nowadays a lot of them are made to beat themsoves to death at 3600 RPM, like the Kubotas. I wouldn't expect a lot of hours out of them.
 

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The other advantage is the diesel gen's run at 1,800rpm which is half the rpm of a gasser.
Another huge advantage is that diesel will store for years. When we lose power here for more than 4 hours it is generally something that can be expected only once maybe every 5-7 years or so. Diesel fuel doesn't mind waiting around for it.
 

mayhem

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Walt has it. I live right close to him and have for the last 20 years. When I built this place I put 3 bedrooms on the south side with it's own 2.5 ton AC. The north side has a 4 ton. Total sq foot under air is 2,500 +/- 50, but the volume is greater because my ceilings are 9' and vaulted

I moved to fla before central air was the norm. So I have my house facing east and lots of widners and sliding doors on both the east and west sides. By Nov I can turn off the ac's, open the winders and doors and the breeze will sweep out the house.

Back on topic. I have a old (2000) Gentrac 7,500 with a 12k surge. It's on wheels but it isn't light. When we experienced 2 hurricanes within 2 weeks back in 04 I was able to close up the bedrooms and run the ac for 3 hours and it cooled enough to sleep.

But as mentioned above you will need a gas station in your yard to feed the thing. Mine above burns about a gallon a hour. I do have 2, 42 gal drums 3/4 buried out back, plus 5, 5 gallon containers. I power the 12v pump with a single 250 watt solar panel and 2 100 amp batteries. So I start out with 90+ gallons and use it very wisely. Haven't gotten into the weeds YET.

I don't have carpet in the house, so leaving the windows open in the high humidity isn't risky. Over the years I have run 12v wire here and there so I can run some lights and stuff on 12v. The rest of the house is all LED inside and out. I'm cooling 2500 sq during the summer for under $200.00 a month.

If I would start over I would most assuredly get a whole house setup. Would go with diesel if possible and try to bury a 4/5 hundred gal tank if the zoning would allow. If not then it would have to be propane. After 40+ years here in WPB and south I'm pretty OK with the heat and humidity.
 

mayhem

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Another huge advantage is that diesel will store for years. When we lose power here for more than 4 hours it is generally something that can be expected only once maybe every 5-7 years or so. Diesel fuel doesn't mind waiting around for it.
True, and the best stabilizer I have found is PRI-D. That's what all the marinas here use when they store a boat that isn't used a lot. I loaned my neighbor 40 gallons that were in the ground for 10 years a couple of months ago and it ran fine in his backhoe.
 

ttazzman

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#27
personally i would have either setup with a inverter generator .10-.2 gal fuel per hour and limited ussage...or setup to use a nat gas genny .....as walt says fuel is a huge issue in a extended outage....but somthing is better than nothing

^^ i use the pri-d ...both diesel and gas they have it for both
 

southfork

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Took that into consideration, I don't need to run the big gen 24/7, when I had the house built I had double insulation put in the walls and I have 2 foot in attic, house is very efficient that way, I can shut the generator off every other hour I plan to run the portable ACS at night
On the 5k generator, my biggest concern is keeping house below 80 and fridge going /also modified my car so I can pump 20 gallons out of that plus another 30 and 4 more empty 5 gallon cans if storm is headed this way, I can ration the running of ac I figure I'm good for at least. 10 days, plus a snobird buddy keeps his boat full, 150 gallons.wish we had natural gas but we dont
 
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southfork

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#29
Walt has it. I live right close to him and have for the last 20 years. When I built this place I put 3 bedrooms on the south side with it's own 2.5 ton AC. The north side has a 4 ton. Total sq foot under air is 2,500 +/- 50, but the volume is greater because my ceilings are 9' and vaulted

I moved to fla before central air was the norm. So I have my house facing east and lots of widners and sliding doors on both the east and west sides. By Nov I can turn off the ac's, open the winders and doors and the breeze will sweep out the house.

Back on topic. I have a old (2000) Gentrac 7,500 with a 12k surge. It's on wheels but it isn't light. When we experienced 2 hurricanes within 2 weeks back in 04 I was able to close up the bedrooms and run the ac for 3 hours and it cooled enough to sleep.

But as mentioned above you will need a gas station in your yard to feed the thing. Mine above burns about a gallon a hour. I do have 2, 42 gal drums 3/4 buried out back, plus 5, 5 gallon containers. I power the 12v pump with a single 250 watt solar panel and 2 100 amp batteries. So I start out with 90+ gallons and use it very wisely. Haven't gotten into the weeds YET.

I don't have carpet in the house, so leaving the windows open in the high humidity isn't risky. Over the years I have run 12v wire here and there so I can run some lights and stuff on 12v. The rest of the house is all LED inside and out. I'm cooling 2500 sq during the summer for under $200.00 a month.

If I would start over I would most assuredly get a whole house setup. Would go with diesel if possible and try to bury a 4/5 hundred gal tank if the zoning would allow. If not then it would have to be propane. After 40+ years here in WPB and south I'm pretty OK with the heat and humidity.
I have 2200 under air with pool, we keep ac on 76, last bill like 120 bucks, all led lights, my ac heats the hot water heater so that's off all summer
ere
 

southfork

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Another huge advantage is that diesel will store for years. When we lose power here for more than 4 hours it is generally something that can be expected only once maybe every 5-7 years or so. Diesel fuel doesn't mind waiting around for it.
I'm going to get a. Diesel after season, didn't want to get raped during season
 

tigerwillow1

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Last month, I cracked open a 3 year old can of diesel treated with sta-bil diesel, and it had a bunch of dark colored blobs on the bottom of the can. I strained it before use, and the screen filled up with the blobs. Otherwise they would have been clogging the fuel filter.
 

ttazzman

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#32
fwiw......we have 48,000 cu/ft ....under ac....we keep the tstat set at 69deg ..with a 2deg swing programed in......all electric house cept for propane water heater........rural so we have a well...and about 40k lumens of outside light on dusk to dawns...out hottest summer month this year (heat indexes around 100f) our total electric bill never exceeded $150 ...... :) (power of insulation and ground source)

TIGERWILLOW.....sounds like you need a algicide in your diesel
 

southfork

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#33
fwiw......we have 48,000 cu/ft ....under ac....we keep the tstat set at 69deg ..with a 2deg swing programed in......all electric house cept for propane water heater........rural so we have a well...and about 40k lumens of outside light on dusk to dawns...out hottest summer month this year (heat indexes around 100f) our total electric bill never exceeded $150 ...... :) (power of insulation and ground source)

TIGERWILLOW.....sounds like you need a algicide in your diesel
How the hell do u do that, 48k cubic ft is around 6500 sq ft with 8 ft ceilings what insulation have you and what do u mean by ground source
 

ttazzman

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#34
How the hell do u do that, 48k cubic ft is around 6500 sq ft with 8 ft ceilings what insulation have you and what do u mean by ground source
most is 9-15ft ceilings.....but cubic feet gives a better true capacity vs square footage of conditioned space........walls are 12" thick construction...my ceiling r values average over r-38......."ground source" is what others might call geothermal heat pumps....we peak at using 1800kw of power during hot months ...pay about .07 a kw = about $125...the rest is fees...(forgot to mention that also includes heated bathroom floors also heat them to 75deg...cool air to 69deg thats a loser for sure :) )
 

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D-FENZ

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#35
Some words of caution. Honda generators use very little fuel, which is why they often won't start and sometimes won't run at all when it's less than 20 degrees outside....too damn lean. I tried drilling out the jet on one of mine and it wouldn't run hardly at all until I bought a new jet and put it back in. Usually they are OK if you can carry it inside to warm up before you start it. Strong back helps. Generac larger generators and their older generators are pretty good, but their smaller generators made in the last decade or so have been getting some mediocre reports. For those who are shopping for new generators under 10 KW, you aren't going to get much bang for your buck.
I have a Honda eu2000i that I use much more than either of the 5 or 10 KW MEP series military diesels as backups. About the only time the diesels get used is when I fire them up to exercise them every couple of months.

I did notice that the Honda is a hard starter when cold. Didn't associate it with being jetted to run lean but it does make perfect sense. It's definitely a fuel sipper but I would prefer that to a fuel hog. You might try directing a handheld propane torch (open but unlit of course) into the air intake when starting a cold gas engine. It's a little hard to do sometimes on an engine with a pull starter but It does work like a charm. Easier on the engine than ether/starting fluid and can be continued until the engine is warmed up if need be.
 

hoarder

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#36
I have a Honda eu2000i that I use much more than either of the 5 or 10 KW MEP series military diesels as backups. About the only time the diesels get used is when I fire them up to exercise them every couple of months.

I did notice that the Honda is a hard starter when cold. Didn't associate it with being jetted to run lean but it does make perfect sense. It's definitely a fuel sipper but I would prefer that to a fuel hog. You might try directing a handheld propane torch (open but unlit of course) into the air intake when starting a cold gas engine. It's a little hard to do sometimes on an engine with a pull starter but It does work like a charm. Easier on the engine than ether/starting fluid and can be continued until the engine is warmed up if need be.
I haven't tried that on the Honda but tried it without success on other engines. The problem with gaseous fuels is they displace air when you need oxygen the most. Unlike liquid fuels, there is a narrow window between minimum and maximum fuel concentration where engines will run.
 

southfork

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#37
most is 9-15ft ceilings.....but cubic feet gives a better true capacity vs square footage of conditioned space........walls are 12" thick construction...my ceiling r values average over r-38......."ground source" is what others might call geothermal heat pumps....we peak at using 1800kw of power during hot months ...pay about .07 a kw = about $125...the rest is fees...(forgot to mention that also includes heated bathroom floors also heat them to 75deg...cool air to 69deg thats a loser for sure :) )

Nice job, Ive always hated paying the electric bill knowing where big oil money goes and especially since the city started taxing the electric bill a few years back. Ive got friends with smaller houses that have bills 3/400 a month. Heres mine for the last year, Im pretty proud of denying the city whatever I can on their tax.

Bill Charge Balance Bill Image 08-21-2018 $121.52 $80.54 View Bill 07-25-2018 $117.49 $-40.98 View Bill 06-25-2018 $114.62 $41.53 View Bill 05-24-2018 $97.76 $-73.09 View Bill 04-25-2018 $77.73 $53.03 View Bill 03-27-2018 $58.68 $-24.70 View Bill 02-23-2018 $58.68 $-83.38 View Bill 01-25-2018 $68.54 $-142.06 View Bill 12-27-2017 $66.37 $59.40 View Bill 11-27-2017 $77.63 $53.03 View Bill 10-25-2017 $97.07 $96.14 View Bill 09-25-2017 $107.00 $106.07 View Bill 08-24-2017 $122.98 $122.07 View Bill 07-25-2017 $126.92 $123.09 View Bill 06-23-2017 $104.12 $96.17 View Bill 05-24-2017 $92.64
 

southfork

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#38
So why did Tiger get blobs in his diesel fuel?? Why is an inverter generator better then than a diesel ? Seems inverter generators are pretty pricey, but what Ive read you can paralal them, could you not parallel a regular generator.? I get the concept of cooling just bedrooms and have ordered two portable ac/ for that reason. Now I changed the oil in my old generator refilled it the engine seized, oil was a tad low, i put penetrating oil in plug, took off manual pull cord and was able to get it turning great with good compression , filled it again and it seized up again , bought it in 2006 and cant find a new motor but being i only paid 300s im better off buying something new.
 

Unca Walt

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#39
I have a Honda eu2000i that I use much more than either of the 5 or 10 KW MEP series military diesels as backups. About the only time the diesels get used is when I fire them up to exercise them every couple of months.

I did notice that the Honda is a hard starter when cold. Didn't associate it with being jetted to run lean but it does make perfect sense. It's definitely a fuel sipper but I would prefer that to a fuel hog. You might try directing a handheld propane torch (open but unlit of course) into the air intake when starting a cold gas engine. It's a little hard to do sometimes on an engine with a pull starter but It does work like a charm. Easier on the engine than ether/starting fluid and can be continued until the engine is warmed up if need be.
That is fargin BRILLIANT, bro!!!!

I never thought of that. I use ether on my eu2000i. From now on, I'm doin' it the D-FENZ way
 

southfork

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#40
I have a Honda eu2000i that I use much more than either of the 5 or 10 KW MEP series military diesels as backups. About the only time the diesels get used is when I fire them up to exercise them every couple of months.

I did notice that the Honda is a hard starter when cold. Didn't associate it with being jetted to run lean but it does make perfect sense. It's definitely a fuel sipper but I would prefer that to a fuel hog. You might try directing a handheld propane torch (open but unlit of course) into the air intake when starting a cold gas engine. It's a little hard to do sometimes on an engine with a pull starter but It does work like a charm. Easier on the engine than ether/starting fluid and can be continued until the engine is warmed up if need be.
Where did you pick up the diesels, is there a place that sells them?