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newmisty

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newmisty

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RESTORATION OF HISTORIC MURAL - GRAND HOTEL, MACKINAC ISLAND, MICHIGAN​

 

KnowWhy

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Could that be a composite filling device?
Portable, handheld X-ray unit. The thick glass ring helps stop back scatter.


How many of you guys went to work with your dad? My dad intentionally made me ride with him in the log truck multiple times growing up.
These pictures remind me of that—seeing other guy’s professions is interesting.
 

newmisty

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Hot Rod Belt Sander - 103mph
 

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I just came back from Lowes.

A 4x8 sheet of OSB is $60!!!
 

newmisty

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I just came back from Lowes.

A 4x8 sheet of OSB is $60!!!
Thats pure insanity.
I saw 1/2 cabinet ply at home cheapo a few weeks ago for $26 a sheet.
 

hammerhead

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Portable, handheld X-ray unit. The thick glass ring helps stop back scatter.


How many of you guys went to work with your dad? My dad intentionally made me ride with him in the log truck multiple times growing up.
These pictures remind me of that—seeing other guy’s professions is interesting.
Pops would take me with him often going from job to job. He owned a big construction firm. Built bridges, roads, tore stuff down. He had a pyrotechnics license and would implement dynamite sometimes. Can still smell and taste that. Meet many fine people. And some real jerks too.

While tearing down a mill brick by brick, one of the plumbers working there was telling me repeatedly how his grandson would kick my ass. I must had been 11 years old at the time cause Dad died when I was 12. No telling what this guy was thinking. People can be that way sometimes. Pops pulls up on the job and I ran over to him to get some money for the roach coach. That plumber must have seen that because the rest of the day he spent apologising to me and telling me he was only kidding.
 

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I just came back from Lowes.

A 4x8 sheet of OSB is $60!!!

Thats pure insanity.
I saw 1/2 cabinet ply at home cheapo a few weeks ago for $26 a sheet.
Last fall I bought 10 3/4 advantech sheets at $55.
Just out of curiosity checked yesterday & they are $76.00
On craigslist, people are listing used plywood for sale that should have gone into the burn pile.
(It's ok though because I heard on the radio that mortgage rates are at an all time low.)
Seriously, though this shit has me worried.
 

newmisty

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Attn @davycoppitt hvac discussion. Tuned in during UV purification. Big Clive is the guy I know on the chat.

Edit: talking HEPA filtration now. They were talking the above
In reference to COVID

 
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davycoppitt

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^

We are doing all that crap at work. Just this past Friday I put all merv 13 filters in an empty building. $1300 worth. I'm sure nobody will be in there by the next time I change them. They are also so restrictive they speed the VFDs up and most likely will crack the heat exchangers.

Put a Austin Air Heppa filter in our house for the wife. It made her happy. Also landed a new ERV (air exhanger) for the house last week. Paid $200 on K-bid. We not worried about covid more just want fresher air inside the house.


Been listing like crazy. Landed another load of HVAC parts this week.
 

newmisty

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Roofing​

ON THE JOB

A Concave Metal Roof​

By Wade Paquin
DOWNLOAD THE PDF VERSION OF THIS ARTICLE. (3.08 MB)

On a recent house build, we were confronted with a detail typical to the coastal, Shingle-style homes we are known for—a small, pop-out roof to protect the garage door opening from weather. The architect had originally drawn this as a straight-hip roof that would be shingled with wood. On this particular home, however, we were using an Eastern-white-cedar sidewall shingle that couldn’t be carried over the roof. (In the past, we’d done this with Port Orford cedar shingles that performed well on a roof exposure.) To overcome the problem, I gently suggested to the architect that we install a flared, standing-seam-metal roof instead. He embraced the idea, pitched it to the client, and we set to work.

90
The curve of the roof is seen here in profile, trimmed with cellular PVC.

Framing and Trim​

We began by building a 2x8 substructure (ledger, blocking, and subfascia) that we affixed to the wall with SDS screws. To define the stepped soffits, we capped this framing with Versatex cellular PVC on the bottom and top. The top provided a base for attaching curved ribs built from two layers of 3/4-inch CDX plywood. The concave roof surface was made with 2x4 furring strips running horizontally over the ribs. Making this segmented surface proved much faster than bending multiple layers of 1/4-inch plywood (which we have done in the past) and resulted in a sturdier structure. We finished out the rake ends and fascias with Versatex, as well, bringing it right up to the top edge of the furring strips so the metal roofing would cap the top edge of this trim.

Forming Concave Standing-Seam Metal Roofing

View All 18 Photos

Play slideshow

Underlayment​

On the coastal homes we build, peel-and-stick ice membrane is our go-to underlayment for most roofs. However, because metal roofing conducts heat so efficiently, ordinary ice membrane is at risk of melting in direct sun. This can create a dripping mess—a callback we can’t afford to have. Instead, we installed a high-temperature underlayment rated to withstand roof temperatures up to 260°F.

Curved Standing-Seam Metal​

At this point, we turned the task of forming the concave standing-seam-metal roofing over to Kyle Ouellette of Liberty Building Envelope. Using lead-coated copper, he and Kory Demello began with the rake drip edges—the hardest and most time-consuming part of the job. Making these two rake pieces for each side of the roof easily consumed about 70% of their time. To illustrate the process, we did a full mock-up in Kyle’s shop to photograph for this article. For the actual job, the rake pieces and curved pans were cut and formed in his shop, but all the seaming work was done in the field. Ordinarily, the pans would be installed in the field beginning at the center and working out in both directions to each rake end.
90
The finished flared roof, with the top edge of the transition flashing taped to the sheathing with Zip System tape.
Photos by Wade Paquin

About the Author​

Wade Paquin
Wade Paquin runs WKP Construction, a custom home building and renovation firm based in Newport, R.I. Follow on Instagram @wkp_construction.

 

TAEZZAR

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Misty, that looks like a "skate ramp" for snow !! :2 thumbs up: :rotf:
 

newmisty

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Got almost everything listed. Made $1300 (after fees) worth off the Honeywell parts already. 1/5 of my way to in the profit. Most of the stuff wont start selling until winter.

Already running out of room and I got another load coming in a month.


IMG_1717.jpg
 

hammerhead

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Got almost everything listed. Made $1300 (after fees) worth off the Honeywell parts already. 1/5 of my way to in the profit. Most of the stuff wont start selling until winter.

Already running out of room and I got another load coming in a month.


View attachment 211499
Shipping must be a PITA. How do you get them out, USPS, FED-UPS?
 

davycoppitt

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Shipping must be a PITA. How do you get them out, USPS, FED-UPS?
Easy as can be. I ran a warehouse for a few years back in the day, so I learned all the tricks of the trade there. All labels are printed right on ebay. I can package, print a label, and have it ready to go in under 5 min. I ship USPS, UPS, and Fedex. All have drop off locations within 5 min of home. If I need to ship a pallet I just go to a friend and he lets me use his warehouse and account. He owns a large HVAC company and lets me ship everyting at cost. I'm actually meeting up with him in the next few weeks to buy all his old inventory he doesn't want. He was thinking 20% of his cost on the items and will let me pick and choose, so I don't get stuck with stuff I will never sell.

Everyone I know saves boxes and packaging material for me, so I spend nothing on that. Tape I buy in bulk when they have a big sale at Menards. Few times a year they have tape for next to nothing, so I load up for the year.

Got my dad running around during the week picking up stuff for me. He is retired just loves doing this. Gives him a chance to get out and talk with people.

Wife and I are looking to sell our house and find a location with a large barn or out building I can turn into my warehouse. Wont cost me much to climate control the thing since I can do all the work myself. Trick to make all this work is to keep operation costs at near zero, which is possible. Next goal is to get amazon figured out. Im taking over the HVAC maitenance at one of their
 
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hammerhead

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Easy as can be. I ran a warehouse for a few years back in the day, so I learned all the tricks of the trade there. All labels are printed right on ebay. I can package, print a label, and have it ready to go in under 5 min. I ship USPS, UPS, and Fedex. All have drop off locations within 5 min of home. If I need to ship a pallet I just go to a friend and he lets me use his warehouse and account. He owns a large HVAC company and lets me ship everyting at cost. I'm actually meeting up with him in the next few weeks to buy all his old inventory he doesn't want. He was thinking 20% of his cost on the items and will let me pick and choose, so I don't get stuck with stuff I will never sell.

Everyone I know saves boxes and packaging material for me, so I spend nothing on that. Tape I buy in bulk when they have a big sale at Menards. Few times a year they have tape for next to nothing, so I load up for the year.

Got my dad running around during the week picking up stuff for me. He is retired just loves doing this. Gives him a chance to get out and talk with people.

Wife and I are looking to sell our house and find a location with a large barn or out building I can turn into my warehouse. Wont cost me much to climate control the thing since I can do all the work myself. Trick to make all this work is to keep operation costs at near zero, which is possible.
One of my daughters and her husband are doing a bay store. They will go pick up stuff on clearance, post it at BIN, and I'm surprised at how much or even what sells. They too have the storage issue. Wall to wall in their tiny house. She makes trips to the P.O. almost daily. As you know, getting the product out to the costumer is as important as making the sale.
 

newmisty

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Started tearing apart a bathroom today.

Interesting use of a floor vent.

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newmisty

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newmisty

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newmisty

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20210527_230243.jpg

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Friggin guys...
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Fiat Metaler

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Was working with a guy and we started talking about my ebay selling HVAC business. He picked up the phone and made a call. Well his best friend works for a large corporation that is cleaning out all their old stock HVAC parts. Here is the first U hall full. Word has spread like wild fire that I buy extra HVAC parts and they are coming in from everywhere. New shelving going up in the basement and started a LLC. Might have found something here.

Everything below was going to go into the trash compactor. They already threw away more than this. Next month they will have another load.

View attachment 209339

Brilliant.
 

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The rot around the toilet closet collar on the subfloor is classic. Wax ring leaks under toilets are probably the most common leak in any drainage system. When we set fixtures in baths with a wooden subfloor we will always silicone seal between the collar and the finished floor covering before the wax ring and toilet is set. That helps to insure that any leak on the wax ring will leak out above and onto the floor under the toilet where it can be noticed and will presumably get fixed immediately. Without that additional silicone, a slow leak in the wax ring will generally never show up until the subfloor has rotted away and- well, you see the result. It gets really disruptive and expensive when it is finally discovered.

To exacerbate the problem, some folks insist on running a bead of caulk between the toilet and floor covering after setting the fixture. But that only makes the problem worse because it holds any leak in, ensuring that it remains unnoticed and forcing the leak to seep into the subfloor below, rotting it away.
 

newmisty

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newmisty

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The rot around the toilet closet collar on the subfloor is classic. Wax ring leaks under toilets are probably the most common leak in any drainage system. When we set fixtures in baths with a wooden subfloor we will always silicone seal between the collar and the finished floor covering before the wax ring and toilet is set. That helps to insure that any leak on the wax ring will leak out above and onto the floor under the toilet where it can be noticed and will presumably get fixed immediately. Without that additional silicone, a slow leak in the wax ring will generally never show up until the subfloor has rotted away and- well, you see the result. It gets really disruptive and expensive when it is finally discovered.

To exacerbate the problem, some folks insist on running a bead of caulk between the toilet and floor covering after setting the fixture. But that only makes the problem worse because it holds any leak in, ensuring that it remains unnoticed and forcing the leak to seep into the subfloor below, rotting it away.
Its actually code to caulk around the toilet base, though most dont and there are good arguments for both.

In my my house i discovered a leak precisely because it was not caulked! https://www.goldismoney2.com/thread...l-get-a-kick-out-of-this.440806/#post-2121609
 

D-FENZ

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Its actually code to caulk around the toilet base, though most dont and there are good arguments for both.
We've literally set thousands of them in various jurisdictions with their various inspectors and have never been called on any of them.

Only rarely will we caulk around the bases and if we do it's always because of a flooring issue. Mostly because of the flooring guys leaving too big a gap around the collar so the toilet base won't cover- yes really. The caulk bead can sometimes be enough to make them look good. Other times it's on concrete floors where the concrete is so poorly troweled around the collar making it impossible to set a toilet evenly and without gaps. But on a concrete floor it really doesn't matter because there is no subfloor to ruin and the caulk helps stabilize the toilet and cover the wedges (or pennies).
 

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Everyone I know saves boxes and packaging material for me, so I spend nothing on that. Tape I buy in bulk when they have a big sale at Menards. Few times a year they have tape for next to nothing, so I load up for the year.

Liquor stores are a good source of medium sized boxes. The boxes tend to be reasonably strong, so around here they leave the empties outside for cutomers to repurpose.
 

newmisty

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Farkin plumbers

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newmisty

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Score of the year - $12!
A buck a sheet at B'Lowes with minor damage. Just so happen to need it and grabbed what I could
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newmisty

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Fotolia_90975634_Subscription_Monthly_M-1-e1495638554590-825x340.jpg

WHEN INSTALLING TILE, ALWAYS BACK BUTTER!

  • Posted by factorytile
  • do it yourself, Factory Tile Depot, Mortar, tile
Tiling is an investment. Make sure to protect your investment by always using the correct and approved installation methods. One of the most common questions we receive from homeowners is regarding spot bonding vs back buttering. While some believe spot bonding is an acceptable way to save money when tiling, we and the tiling industry as a whole disagree and recommend the back butter method.
Mortar, Spot Bonding and Back Buttering
Mortar is what keeps your tile bonded to the substrate. The first step of tile installation is to apply mortar to the substrate using the correct sized trowel, applying in a way that you end up with clean horizontal trowel lines of mortar.
Next, mortar should then be applied to the back of the tile. There are two methods to apply mortar to the back of tile:
  1. Back Buttering – The back of the whole tile is covered in a layer of mortar (like the image above).
  2. Spot Bonding – A small dollop of mortar is applied to the centre of the tile (sometimes additional mortar is added to the four corners).
Some installers and homeowners use the spot bonding method because they believe it saves money on the mortar and is faster to install. However, spot bonding is a bad practice and can lead to a variety of problems including: cracks, hollow areas behind the tile, uneven installations and even tile discoloration in some cases.
When tiles are properly installed using the back butter method, there is a stronger bond between the tile and the substrate, which minimizes tile breakage and lippage (the variation in height of adjoining tiles). Additionally, using the back butter method will help ensure:
  • Even and complete adhesion every time.
  • Even drying time throughout the space.
  • Preventing blotching of natural stone where moisture is absorbed unevenly.
  • A secure installation with no weak spots.
If you’re installing tile as part of your home renovation project, don’t try to save money by skimping on the mortar—you’ll end up paying a higher price in cracked and uneven tiles down the road
 

newmisty

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TAEZZAR

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